Finally, in DP8s
twelfth year, we experienced Terrapin, something I
thought would have happened years ago. The shingled
turret of Terrapin presents a unique angle in
Rhinebecks center, and the reclamation of a church
leads diners to enjoy a singular interior ambiance.
But, to the important stuff first.
Terrapins menu is full and variedfrom a cache
of tapas, a few soups, half-dozen salads, half dozen
pasta-risotto entrées, a couple vegetarian entrées, a
few fish and a half-dozen-ish meat entrées. And some of
these entrées can be experienced as tapas. A bonus is
the owners commitment to locally sourced food. (I
heard one or two objections to the full and
varied characterization.)
After more than a few minutes of perusal, we finally
decided on (and I acknowledge Terrapins web site):
==>Natural Beef Braised Short Rib Gratinee - Slow
cooked in a rich beef and onion broth over Yukon gold
mashed potatoes topped with caramelized onions and melted
gruyere crostini (Chay: good, small portion of potatoes;
Kerry: excellent)
==>Venison Medallions with Juniper Demi-Glace - Goat
cheese polenta, large mound of spinach (Don: something
different, a bit meatier than expected but still a good
choice; polenta was worthy; take home venison portion was
even better next day)
==>Farmers Market Crepes - Sauteed fresh Hudson
Valley veggies in buckwheat crepes with a raclette cheese
mornay sauce (Deb K: good vegetarian dish, sauce was good
but not enough of it)
==>Uncle Vinnys Special Rigatoni - Sauteed
strips of chicken breast with spinach in a tomato-sherry
sauce (Kriss, Ken, Julie: all excellent)
==>Pumpkin Ravioli - Pecans, oven dried tomatoes and
brown butter-sherry sauce (Deb T: wonderful, pecans gave
good texture; and Don agreed)
The appetizer round found:
==>Borscht - Beet, pork and beef stew with creme
fraiche (Don: more meat than expected but excellent;
could have been an entrée)
==>Caesar Salad -- Romaine lettuce, grilled garlic
bread croutons, topped with anchovies (Kriss & Ken,
of course, and Julie: all very good)
==>Baby Arugula Salad with Coach Farm Goat Cheese
Wontons - Roasted red & yellow bell peppers and a
sesame vinaigrette (Deb T, Deb K: both excellent)
==>Endive, Candied Walnut, and French DAuvergne
Blue Cheese Salad - Crisp apples and balsamic vinaigrette
(Chay: a different choice, excellent)
We mostly heeded the menus
advice that dessert is best for people who complain of
being too full.
==>Black Forest Trifle - With local cherries and
bourbon (Don: excellent, with a chocolate cream, and rich
cake; and hoping to not be taunted by Kriss pick)
==>Warm Molten Center Chocolate Cake - With Ronnybrook
vanilla ice cream (Kriss: rich & deep; Don enjoyed
the taste Kriss gave him; no regrets for Don)
==>Warm Berry Cake blueberry layer cake with a
hint of lemon zest, topped with vanilla ice cream (Kerry:
very good)
==>Ice Cream Sandwich - Ronnybrook vanilla ice cream
between two house-made chocolate chip cookies (shared-Deb
K & Chay: a small sandwich for each: good cookie,
nice way to end a meal)
(Ronnybrook is a nearby Ancramdale dairy.)
Earlier, two round wire baskets,
linen-lined, eventually were placed on the table, but at
the same time as the appetizers. Twenty minutes sooner
would have been betterplan or oversight, we could
not tell. Still, the crusty bread was tasty, and even
tastier were the inch round cheesy biscuits. A small bowl
of softened butter accompanied.
Service, mostly by Nadia, was efficient and helpful; the
setting was perhaps too busy, too tight to be personable.
The black garbed, gray aproned staff made for good team
work, and we had a different wait staff for water, and
then busing, and even delivery.
However, two major glaring non-human blots influenced the
evening. One, it was cold and breezy, indoors! The
continual cold draft gusted each time the entry door was
opened, and the restaurants attempt to stanch the
flow with two cloth curtains was patently insufficient.
So, Chay and Ken, at the end of the oval jutting into the
open walkway, suffered the brunt of the cold air and
finally yielded, donning their coats to prevent
hypothermia. The end of the banquette, half protected by
the back, half not, got a cold shoulder. Those of us
inside the banquette were reasonably comfortable.
The second flaw, for some, was table configuration, with
the oval banquet ensconcing four diners beyond the
physical reach of the servers. So, every time some item
was delivered to those four, the server-diner connection
needed very long arms or a long stretch over someone at
the table, or someone at the table needed to be part of
the delivery chain. It seems a disservice to
Terrapins otherwise crafted planning to park
patrons beyond the reach of the servers. There were only
two spots on the floor where this could happen, and we
were in one of those spots. I suspect some of our scores
dropped because of these two factors.
Terrapins ambiance is
intriguing. The former church space leaves a cavern to
fill, and the space is left opena 40 x 60 foot
space perhaps. The dark wainscoting-filled ceiling made
the height feel less, with the large side window space
dominating the south wall. The north wall is much
shorter, with frosted glass arches dividing the
restaurant from Redthe more casual side of the
business. Entry to the building is direct, with a maître
d podium directing patrons left or right.
The walls are a solid coral-pinkish, the carpeting a
gray-stippled dark-blue-ish, and the banquette red-blue
floral pattern. A raised level, about two tables wide and
perhaps fifty feet long, rises a few feet above the main
floor on the south and west walls. A guesstimate said
capacity might be 125 patrons.
The two back corners featured separate 15 x
15 beam skeletons that could be separated by
curtains, and one of them anchored a chord from which
another curtain could divide the dining floor.
Industrial-look venting tubes sprouted from the ceiling.
Lighting came from the ten four-layer art deco lamps,
imitating the church lamp placements. Other lighting came
from a string of squeezed tear-drop lights above the
raised level, with the entire floor generally lit by a
couple spotlights and an array of track lighting on the
ceiling. Along the walls sprouted a dozen sconce-types,
each a three-foot sinuous thin pipe holding tall, lit
candles.
Most of the seating was at solid tables with lattice-back
chairs, complemented by a banquette under the raised
level and by two banquette-booths, one of which we
occupied. Our oval tabledouble white-linened, and
protected by the high booth wallmade for easy
conversation level.
The table centerpiece was a four inch cube of thick glass
with a dozen carnations languidly leaning over the glass
lip while a six inch metal tube allowed votive
candlelight to peer through the small perforations.
The drink selection was a little subdued with only four
red drinkersone bottle of Bula 2011
Montsant, while two sodas and two waters completed the
array. Terrapins wine list is a long one, neatly
categorized, with a long list of half-bottles available.
Wine markup prices seemed fair.
Kens coffee cup was intermittently refilled, and
the evenings pacing was comfortable for most
two hours, fifteen (unless you were enduring the cold).
The billincluding tax, tip, and drinkcame to
$120 per couple. Very good food, competent service
(physical), intriguing ambiance, and a couple major
shortcomings comprised the evenings highlights.
Off we drove to brave an especially cold November evening
We started the evening at the
Monteverds, where Kriss had splayed the counter
with a plates of: 1- three types of crackers, two
cheeses, pepperoni; 2- Krauses malt balls,
Krauses foil-wrapped chocolate, cashews; and 3- the
healthy plate of grapes, celery, apple slices, baby
carrots. Ken took care of our liquid needsa red, a
white, a rose, beer, and soda.
With the Adamses gone until spring, Julie and Kerry
capably filled in this evening.
Weather was the big topic, with the days high about
ten degrees below average, and tomorrows forecast
to be fifteen degrees colder, with high winda
perfect January day before Thanksgiving. On the way to
Rhinebeck, we drove through a few squalls, one that was
heavy enough to make visibility interesting. Still, Ken
drove 60+, with Don trying to stay in sight on a
sometimes wet, near-freezing road on a dark early
evening. Fortunately, the drive back was drier.
Other topics touched on weather (already noted), what all
our kids were doing, the Quinns perspective on the
world, C-D stuff, pending retirements, news about Tim
& Judy, Kalli, the Teators trip next month, a
Saratoga grandchild, Thanksgiving plans, Christmas plans,
a desperate need for an ATM in Rhinebeck (more laughs
than any other topic all night), looking for colleges
(Julie and Kerry made us with post-college children feel
good), the Teators new car, day trips, Catskill
stuff (Deb K & Julie), and more that has passed me
by.
|