Reginato Ristorante October
2009 (dt)
6.25 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 6, 6, 5.5
A forty-five minute trip, first winding
south on Route 32 and then diverting to Mt Marion Road, found DP8
on a return visit to Reginato Ristorante in Lake Katrine, minutes
from Kingston. We last visited in April 2003, and we amused
ourselves about what we remembered and did not remember.
The restaurant snugly fits in a quiet neighborhood with only the
lights in its front yard alerting us we had reached our
destination. The entry leads to a reception room with its
richness of dark wood and paneling that hearkened back to the
late-1800s Victorian era. A few photos of yesteryear catch the
eye before the passage though the bar area, down the Be
careful of the step advisory, and then to the dining area.
A warm ambience awaits. As dusk settled, the three chandeliers of
a center bowl, surrounded by smaller upturned bowls, allowed
muted light to seep under, with the upward light angling off the
whiteness of the sound absorbing panels to then reflect or be
absorbed by the combination of colors of the room. Alternating
sconces of twin lights added to the soft light. Tall bay windows
are curtained in maroon, with plants and vases occupying the
shelf space, while paintings and mirrors fill the inter-window
space. Beige-ish linens, white appetizer plates and ordinary
silverware greeted our seating at the round, and very cozy and
close, table in the rooms right angle corner. A few thought
a sense of well-worn-ness had edged in.
Water glasses were filled upon our seating, and two toasty loaves
of Italian bread, with an ear-pleasing crust crinkling, begged to
be sliced on the bread boards. Two ramekins of creamy butter
melted promptly in the bread as we considered the array of
choices of the menu. Arriving at nearly the same time was a raw
vegetable platter (carrots, fennel, pepper slices, celery, as I
remember) with a dipping bowl of a warm and herbed olive oil.
The dining area is a large ell, about 30-40 feet down each leg,
with an offset of a fifteen foot wide octagon, created by two
columns on each side and a wainscot-high wall, that suggested
another room but was part of the larger space. The legs of the
ell were sided by tables, about 20 in all, with the servers
walking down the middle.
The waiter asked for drink orders, necessitating Tim to ask for a
wine list. A glass of champagne, two diet sodas, and two generous
carafes of house Montepulciano filled our drink order. The wine,
about whose origin we did not ask, was a pleasant and smooth wine
to accompany the Italian food of the evening.
The first course consisted of the accompanying soup or salad. The
soup (three of us) was a vegetable lentil soup with plenty of
bits of vegetables, ham and loads of lentils a full but
not too rich soup. The salad for the five was a serviceable start
for the meal the usual greens, tomatoes, onion slices,
choice of dressing, etc.
Judy ordered one of the dinner specials, which included a choice
from a short list of appetizers. Hers was a plate of a half-dozen
clams oregano, topped with a coat of toasted bread crumbs, shared
by whomever wished to partake; most called them good.
Almost eighty minutes after seating, entrées arrived: Shrimp fra
diavolo, with six to eight shrimp, a clam and three mussels, with
a hot sauce over linguine (Don, good; Chay, good, but
too garlicky and not as hot as he is accustomed to);
a special Pork medallions pesto (Deb T, a few thin cuts of
pork, swimming in a creamy pesto sauce that seemed too heavy but
was mostly ok); Baked ziti (Kriss, satisfactory); Veal
parmigiana, thin cuts of meat topped with sauce and cheese (Ken,
just ok); Manicotti Florentina, with spinach (Deb K, very good);
the Veal medallions special, topped with cappicola and mozzarella
cheese (Tim, good, felt like veal parm, good sauce; Judy, good ).
Although the food was visually pleasing, a review of our comments
reflects a lack of enthusiasm. Side note: anyone ordering a
special also had either a side of pasta and sauce or the plate of
steam vegetables.
Reginato offered a few special touches. We appreciated the
pre-entrée lemon sorbet cleanser that arrived in classic sorbet
dishes. Our souls jumped a little at this, especially after all
the Deb Karnes sorbets we have savored over the years. It
was amusing to listen to Betiana explaining why she was
explaining the purpose of sorbet (and the variety of experiences
she has had with the uninitiated diner). Then, accompanying the
salads was a giardiniera bowl, something we seldom see. After the
entrées, a plate of fresh fruit apples, oranges, slices
of cantaloupe was presented to the table. All of these
rang our pleasure radars (my apologies for the mixed metaphor).
The gap between entrées and dessert seemed to be a bit prolonged
but we, of course, managed to fill it with some banter, current
events, epiphanies, and less earth-rocking topics. More on those
later but it is noted here because our cheeks were hurting from
laughing so much, probably disturbing our dining neighbors.
The dessert course started about two hours after seating, and all
of us partook. Chays Sambuca and Tims Frangelica
filled the liquid part of the order. The other orders included:
crème brûlée (Deb T, satisfactory; and Judy, mediocre and
disappointing, cold, gritty; she even left some, claiming she was
full); the chocolate fondant layer cake (Don, good , a moist
chocolate but light cake which was appropriate for the
restaurant); cannoli (Deb K, good; and Ken, good; comments were
other than gustatory); Tartuffe, a globe of vanilla-chocolate ice
cream with a hard chocolate shell, cut into quarters, with a
cherry core (Kriss, good, and shared with Don).
As for service, we appreciated Betianas service. (Her
inflection immediately had us guessing her origin and after
several guesses, she told us Argentina, which led to discussion
of some of our travels, and where Mendoza was, and accents, and a
short history of her.) Her personable service was efficient,
attentive, and friendly; high marks all around. Water glasses
were regularly filled by a separate person. The pacing was very
casual two-and-a-half-plus hours which, at times, is too
casual but we were having our own fun.
The bill, with drinks, tax and tip included, was $87, a good
value evening. So, off we departed, with the backseat passengers
changing cars, as is our custom.
Somehow, I feel as if the lukewarm review of the entrées and
desserts does not do justice to our evening. We had anticipated
this visit, found the ambience warm, the service competent, and
yet the ratings may not tell the pleasure we had. The food,
almost unexplicably, did not measure up to our expectations, and
probably justifiably so, but we were charmed by the soft Italian
music, the sorbet and vegetable bowl, the round table effect, and
a desire to like the restaurant. The parts dont add up to
the whole and, thus, perhaps, the urge is to value the parts.
We had started at the Monteverds, on a rare
Sunday night (as was last month, begging the question how rare
are these nights), with a half-hour earlier start. Ken and Kriss
had arranged a plate of broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, tomatoes
and celery; Swiss, cheddar and yellow American cheeses; wine
selections of Cavit pinot noir, Luna di Luna pinot gris, and
Beringer white zin, accompanied by diet soda and Sam Adams beer.
An additional plate held Halloween candy, roasted nuts, and
M&M peanuts. And most of it disappeared. Thanks for hosting,
Ken and Kriss.
Topics of discussion started with our goings-on: a DC birthday
trip, shorter work week for Tim, THE Adamses trip to Paris,
the Karneses forays to Yankee Stadium, a foliage ride, THE
wedding, the Karnes kittens, Debs DIY project at
Nathans, school, more school, the womens trip to
Debs mom over the weekend, Kens DIY upstairs, Deb
Ts retirement, Kriss antiquing and crock-hunting,
Tims Social Security, and probably as many more topics.
We departed on our aforementioned route, debating which way was
shorter.
These earlier discussions spilled over into dinner talk .... ...
....
Meanwhile, we consumed twenty minutes to reminisce about our own
weddings, how we met, memorable marriage moments (all because, at
our first dinner date here, we had worn our wedding rings, an
event not since replicated), other
possible-mates-but-fate-intervened events, marital bliss, and
more blissful (or less) events. We spent another ten minutes of
ways Chay lies to students just to see what they believe
needles up the nose for swine flu, the intruder attack, the
swimming pool in the basement, and more. Somewhere, we fit in the
effects of eating cantaloupe rind, people who wear Viagra
jackets, and on and on. Oh, we laughed.
On to November and Windhams Mill Rock, the site of
DP8s (although we did not call ourselves that until later)
first dinner date seven years to the month. Be wary of the
philosophical wanderings next month.