Wednesday, Sept. 26
Day Trip #14


Heavy rain overnite again. Wake to clouds. spitting rain, when Don & Tim walk to the boulangerie & patisserie.

            The bummer is Deb is still sick. She thinks she probably needs antibiotics – no energy & sinus problems.

            Followed our usual routine, with Don & Tim going again today for croissants and pastries.

            Off around 10:00, after breakfast to head north on the Route Grand cru (high falutin’ red wine tour road). We start to the west side of Beaune & head to Nuits St. George, Vosne-Romanez,Vougeot, Cambolle-Musigny, Cambe Laraux, Gevrey-Chambertain, Brachon and  Fixin.  The towns are typically picturesque, & despite the heavy rain, we see groups of people picking grapes. We stop at the TI in Gevrey-Chambertin & talk to the woman behind the counter who speaks excellent English. G-C is one of the hoity-toityest towns, & we had some yesterday! The TI lady talks to us about French pronunciation & points us towards the public toilet. We walk there, & Deb is amused to find a so-called toilet, which consists of a hole in the floor w/ 2 places for your feet. We traveled about 20 miles north total before turning around. We saw several Burgundian roofs on our travels – multicolored tiles on a steep roof. As far as the Grand Cru, the guide book states there are 32 total, 9 of which are in Gevrey-Chambertin.

------------------------------- no photos of the day, so here some catch-ups

stream, with gutter, beside road leading to apt

gateway to apartment


kitchen window, and lookers-out

entry door, kitchen left, dining room right


grape harvester

wine domaines in Pommard (some, and IN town)


            Another note about wine, which I forgot to include in yesterday’s write up – our guide during the wine tasting said, “Vines have to suffer” to make good wine. – for example, low moisture, rocky soil, etc.

            Grand cru rules were set around 1850, & it’s hard to become a grand cru now if you’re not already. Not impossible, but very difficult. Many of the grand cru places have been making wine for 1000 years.

            After our ride, we head back south to Pommard, & head into the chateau du Pommard, which is privately owned. It is still raining heavily. We head to the restaurant for lunch, w/o researching the menu very well.. (Too hard to read in the heavy rain outside). After we’re seated, we discover the fixed price meal is 35€, more than we wanted to pay, but it’s hard to get up now & leave. A la carte entrées are in the 40’s. So we go for it anyway--small shot of fish flavored liquid w/ a pastry crusted piece of bread, appetizer of thickened tomatoe liquid w/ relish and buffalo mozzarella on top; entrée of duck filet w/ roasted fig halves & back currents with dollops of mashed potaoes, which are hand scooped onto the plate by the waitress. (Duck & figs & currents were excellent!)  Tim and I. Think this is the best duck we've ever had.  Cheese plate w/ 3 types of cheese – goat w/ crust, white creamy from Pommard covered w/ mustard seed & another stronger yellow, soft cheese, all accompanied w/ sour dough rolls. Dessert – panacotta (white, creamy pudding) covered with red fruit coulis. Delicious!

            Of course, I created a mishap by spilling my cremant on the table, but was quickly given another.

            The room we eat in has 3 glass walls off the stone chateau, with views of the vineyards, rain & countryside. At the other end of the room are large tables filled w/ people, some w/ Lotus Renault shirts. We discover later they all work for Renault.

            We had planned on doing the tour & wine tasting at the chateau, but it is 21€ each. Too much $ for us!

            We head instead to Beaune. Deb & I shop & buy a few things. She needs long sleeved shirts & a sweater because it is so much cooler than we had thought it would be. I get a blue cardigan / jacket.

            Tim & Don walk around, get a cafe au lait, a newspaper & a new sweater for Tim.

            Back to our apartment by 4:45. Still raining & cool.

            A lesson from Don – Centigrade: 0°C = 32°F; 10°C = 50°F’ Every 10°C = 18°F, so 20°C = 68°F.

            Relax, knit, Deb completes her scarf, and spaghetti & salad for dinner.

            We play “hearts – R, D, V. (Runny, drippy, V-----). Fun! R= Roi/King; D=Dame/Queen; V=Valet/Jack.

            To bed to read around 10:00 after I get my butt whooped in hearts. 4 out of 5 times w/ the queen of spades!